Welcome To Monday
The Surf Sucks
Here is something to cheer you up.
OK, sorry about that, now back to our regular programming.
Not much to speak of in the way of surf around SFNP these days. The weather and Parental Obligations have conspired to keep me out of the water since the 16th. Coulda, Woulda, Shoulda on Saturday but a lack of focus meant I didn’t discover the potential goodness until it was too late. The sun was setting and I was sans board.
The last couple of weeks haven’t been a total bust though. At least I finally got my prints from Patch framed. It only took, well….. never mind. The salvaged 70’s aluminum frame works quite well with Cold Bite I think. The noserider guy didn’t have the title written on the back so hopefully the artist will drop by and remind me what it is.
If you didn’t already know, a lot of the art that Patch posts is available as very affordable prints so don’t be shy if you like one.
*yes, I know the wall needs some new Pottery Barn Crème’ Brulee warm tone paint…
Nose Rida II
Got into the “shaping bay” on Monday and got it all dusty and dirty. Now it’s cleaned up and the Nose Rida II is about 60% done after 4 hours of work. Nine feet six inches is a lot of foam for a noob.
Update: I am not that hairy!
Egg White Omelette
I picked this up from the good folks at Moonlight Glassing* early last week, and I still haven’t had the chance to even wax it up, much less ride it. In fact, I’m thinking of putting it up for sale in it’s pristine state, dirt cheap. All proceeds go to fund future shaping endeavors. If interested contact me quick before it gets ridden or put on CL.
I like the golden glow of this sunset photoshoot but the board is actually blindingly bright white. Something about a sanded finish, seems to make it brighter than a polished board. 7′6″ by 2 7/8 or so, template based on this sweet Frye. The fin is one I have from another board and the plan is to get a Greenough flex fin.
* what, you think I’m going to pass up an opportunity to give myself another plug???
D Fin
D Fin, stoneware clay with glaze and wax relief stencil, approximately six inches in height.
Getaway
Went on a road trip this weekend. Got lots of surf. Saw some art. Paddled out to the shoulder at the main event and watched the chosen few from the frothing masses rip rippable huge freight train walls. Took a drive in the country. Shot some surf. Ate some gianormous surfer café breakfasts. Kept my eyes peeled for weathered rigs. Solo relaxation and reflection. Early this morning and back home, awoke to brisk offshore peelers, dark blue with bright white foam, the icing on the cake.
"quintessential California surf lifestyle"
Another installment in my “I couldn’t possibly make this stuff up” series:
An artificial beach with palm trees, boardwalks and rentable fire-pits and barbecues is planned for post-surf relaxation. (click it)
My favorite part is the two surfers casually strolling back to the office after a quick lunch time “sesh”.
Cylinders And Bricks
Sometimes you get cylinders, other times you get bricks. This morning I pretty much got all bricks. But at least it was calm and glassy, and I got a session in before the predicted storm.
Welcome 2008
Another year, another new project.
This will be pretty much an exact duplicate of the noserider I made for Jason, should be ready by summer.
I had a lot of time off last the last few days, but also a lot of visitors and kinfolk in town which coupled with the general lack of swellyness, meant not a lot of surf. By Sunday evening I’d had enough of entertaining people who don’t surf so I gave The Boss fair warning that I’d be surfing New Years Eve Day and New Years Day no matter what. Monday was pretty fun on the butter board and I was in such a giddy mood with the hot sunshine I didn’t even bother to drive around, I just went out at the nearest spot.
New Years Day was better swell and I hit it fairly early as it was after all a Family Day. I noted that all of these anti-drunk driving campaigns and alternative celebration parties must be having an effect. It seemed that few surfers got wasted enough to be too hung over to make it to the beach. It was pretty much like any other Saturday morning so thankfully the swell was up a bit. Afterwards in the parking lot a surfer had come in and was setting up a giant thermos of coffee complete with cups, sugar, creamers and Sweet-N-Low. A great gesture and set the tone for the day.
On Holiday
Well, we’re into Day Seven of the Holiday Vacation around here, with four more to go.
Yesterday was a butt cold dawn patrol and the waves were a junky and big wind swell. Hardly anyone was going, except this one gal and she was just giddy, kept trying to get us to go with her. There were a few guys already out, but not catching much as the waves mostly mushed out after breaking. I was going to pass, telling myself it was not worth it, too junky. It looked like a long paddle out and not so clean for the size. Finally I admitted I was being a chicken. So I suited up with my spiffy new all-in-one fleecy rash guard and hood and hit it with the crazy lady. The paddle out was not as bad as expected, and I got seriously one of the best waves I’ve ever had, or so it seemed at the moment. It was a left, and I hate lefts. It wasn’t that long of a ride, but it was a great steep drop into a sick pit, cranked a bottom turn up into a fast wall, and then a nice fast roundhouse cutback. I don’t know why it felt so great, but it did.
Last night for giggles I put a thermometer in the car (no, it’s not a yuppie-mobile with one built in) since the weather lady said it was going to be even nippier this morning. When I pulled away at 6:00 this morning it was 36 degrees in the car. The radio said it was 32 in Oceanside. What the hell was I headed to the beach for? I was greeted with much cleaner conditions but also much smaller and really weak. Two guys were out and having no luck getting into them, even the set waves. After yesterday’s stoke I decided today wasn’t worth the hypothermia. The high point of the morning was watching a pod of whales from the bluff as they headed south. One even did a dive and popped out his tail. Maybe it was just one whale, who knows. After that it was time for Eggsville.
